Surprise, surprise My Sweety Karl is joining me on this years adventure….YAY
Are we ride fit, ah that would be a definite NO. Does it bother me if I don’t get a start docket …maybe, but let’s wait til the journey begins. Does Karl mind, well let’s just say he is a little concerned about our fitness & the conditions.
Day 1 is Home in Corryong to the Citrus Valley Motel in Renmark.
Start docket for me in hand and we are off into the bloody freezing morning at 8:45am. Freezing, depending when you look at the ambient temp gauge on the bike which varied from -3 degrees to -5 degrees. I had ICE on my gloves, jacket and Dudley’s screen, the mirrors were useless, and the fog was thick. Needless to say it was a slow ride out to Albury, where we head into sunshine, cool temps and fuel & early lunch in Finley. Deniliquin, then turn of at Pretty Pine, through Moulemein (roads in better condition than last year but still not fabulous), before arriving in Balranald for fuel.
New helmet fitted with comms isn’t sorted out and then add glasses and you have uncomfortable pressure points where your ears are screaming at you. Karl’s butt is sore, he has sore ears too and we are both out of condition. I didn’t think the wind was too bad but there was no way I was going to make Renmark 310km, so a splash and dash at Buronga and use of the facilities was in order. Slow afternoon through Mildura as the sun starts to lower and is blinding. We pull into the Cirtus Valley Motor Inn at 6ish, then head down the road for a Chinese feed.
Wrap up for the day, necks sore, ears have sore points that I didn’t know existed, heated gear is a blessing and the new Camelbak is a pain in the arse – some MacGyvering is needed on this to get it to work for me. It’s lovely to have Karl along and he also has sore ears, neck & butt and a few more pains since he hasn’t ridden for ages.
About 3 roos, a dead wombat and that was pretty much it.
SCDR ride completed at 892.2kms for the day.
Day 2 – Renmark to Streaky Bay SA.
Out a little earlier than the plan which meant we had more time to have coffee & Karl breaky in Burra @ St Just Café.
This is the 1st time that I have ridden out of Renmark in daylight which was nice and thankfully uneventful with only a few roos that weren’t terribly interested in us. The wind will be our nemesis today and by the time we got to Burra, I’d lost 40 kms on the tank which required me to do a splash & dash in town before heading out. Highly recommend the St Just Café if you are in Burra for breakky or even morning tea….the cakes display was very tempting (good reason to come back). The wind only preceded to get worse as the day went on. However, it didn’t take away how pretty the countryside is through that area leading through the hills into Crystal Brook. Green as green as can be and peaceful except for the wind noise. Out onto the A1 and into Warnertown for fuel and happy to get the helmet off and readjust the glasses and comms earpieces – still causing heaps of pain. Beautiful day to be out if only the wind would go away. Its seriously like doing a workout battling the wind and the oncoming road trains which are in abundance.
It’s quite unusual for Karl to sit behind me so when his highbeams would come on “all of a sudden”, I’d back off to see what was wrong. Seems his gloves hit it without him realising until I’ve slowed down so much that I can see him waving at me to keep going…LOL
Through The Gutter, past Iron Knob and into Kimba for lunch & a break. The roads are long out here with a slight curve every now and again but the scenery changes, whether it be the cloud formations or the vegetation…it’s still beautiful. Half Way Across Australia is the town of Kimba, also home of the Big Galah, some silo art and a pretty special moment to have Karl with me.
Lunch was unexciting, fuel is getting more expensive and the windy just isn’t going away. Through Wudinna and just out of Poochera we take a “left turn Clyde” to head towards Streaky Bay our stop for the night. Fuel and off to the Discovery Park Foreshore Streaky Bay to our cabin by the bay.
Courtesy bus to the pub…bonus and there are heaps of other riders there too, some old friends of mine all headed for the same destination Border Village. Unusual for me to be chatty..LOL but it’s been a whole year since I’ve seen these guys. Introduce Karl – see he “does” exist and we tuck unto our dinner.
Have I mentioned how bad the winds were?? We had tail winds, head winds, cross winds and human winds (although those ones didn’t really affect the fuel economy but sure made you feel better) the entire day. Was glad to get off and not feel like I was better battered.
Into bed for a decent sleep.
Day 3 – Streaky Bay to Border Village.
Good morning Streaky Bay!! Overcast skies but thought we would be ok but I was wrong and we had some rain most of the way from Smoky Bay to Ceduna. Not enough to get you real wet but enough to make you a little cautious and hoping it doesn’t get any heavier. Pop out onto the A1 just out of Ceduna then into the Highway One OTR for Karl’s breaky and coffee. We are both still having issues with our ears getting so sore in the helmet. Karl seems to think it’s his ear moulds, I seem to think it’s the earphones and pressure from my balaclava. A few more adjustments and we’ll see how we go…..gotta get it right eventually.
Slight breeze today but nothing like yesterday thank heavens for that. The road surface changes from here on (I don’t know why) but the scenery continues to be beautiful. Some would say there is nothing out there to look at but I don’t see it that way and there is so much beauty in the outback that the average person just doesn’t get to experience. Guess Karl & I are lucky people.
Into Penong for fuel and some fella’s from last year also roll in. Lance, his son Dan, mates Adam & Chris (although I didn’t get their names right until we got to BV but I did remember their faces). We are all warned that there is a floating copper with radar in the area (how big is the area, well that is undetermined) so with caution we head off sticking to the speed limit. We were almost at Yatala when we approach a slow-moving caravan, but I noticed in front of that Mr Plod sitting a steady 100kph by the speedo. I overtook the caravan but was a little nervous to overtake Mr Plod until Karl went past all of us…onya Sweety. So, when I had the chance did the same thing, politely nodding to Mr Plod as I passed and gave him a wave when I pulled in. Cautious not to do the wrong thing it took a bit to get some distance between us before you could wind on a little and sit a bit more comfortably.
The ribbon of road we are travelling just goes on forever, but we finally make Nullarbor Roadhouse for lunch and I told Karl it was “play tourist” time. Fuel & lunch done, then off to get some happy snaps. Fuel here was $2.92/lt and that was for 95 but you take what you can get as there is NO other option.
Last leg for the day, the final 184kms to Border Village. I thought we’d see a lot more bikes than what we have so far today, especially since last year by this time Nullarbor Roadhouse was packed and there was a steady stream of riders all heading out in what looked like a convoy. Never mind, it’s good not to have to wait and to have the road to yourself. As we turned out onto the A1 again, we were asked to move off onto the verge for a big arse oversized load that had full on police escorts. They were carrying buckets for dozers that were seriously as wide as the entire highway and you HAD to get off the road. Imagine the digger those things were to go on HUGE!!!
There’s something about knowing you are on the last leg that makes it go longer and everything seems to get sorer for some reason, and we were both feeling this. The ribbon of road undulating as you got glimpses of the Great Australian Bight but I was not pulling off into those lookout bays as I have learned my lesson…maybe on the way back we might stop.
5km to Border Village, the sign that says all your aching parts can have some relief when you park up and we arrive…YAY!!!
Check in, unpack, rest….ahhh.
The time here really messes with my head so we had an early dinner for ACST but closer to our own real dinner time, did a little bit of socialising, grab some more touristy pics and headed back to the cabin for the night. Showered and ready for bed…don’t care if I sleep till 10 tomorrow.
Day 4 – Border Village Rest Day
We both got a good night’s sleep which is unusual when we travel but we obviously needed it. It’s fresh and a cooked breaky is calling. Poached eggs on toast and the worst coffee of the trip so far for me and bacon & egg roll for Karl which set us back a pretty penny but that is the outback price. Everything must be trucked in, all the power is run on a genny and then wages so it is what it is.
Some more touristy photo time, SA/WA Border sign (which is still in disrepair), Welcome to Western Australia sign, beautiful fresh outback morning, and a very quiet village…the calm before the storm.
Not having travelled past the quarantine station into WA we went down the road to Eucla with Bill & Hoffy. Eucla a tiny blip on the map with a motel that has a nice looking café/restaurant, a museum which has some interesting stuff in there and the old Telegraph Station. The Telegraph Station is now derelict and mostly covered in the sand dunes but is well worth the trip down the gravel road and walk through the dunes to reach it. When you see the pics in the museum of when it was erected on a flat plain where women used to pass messages from SA & WA from one side of a wall through a port hole to the other side is amazing….not to mention the time difference that happened between that magical port hole which is a whole other story but is the reason for the funky time zone for Eucla/Border Village area.
Today is expected to be busy, lots of motorcyclists from all over the place will roll in today some part of clubs like us (SCDR – Southern Cross Distance Riders) and others just travelling to meet old friends……it’s a great time and I love it!! Watching old friends arrive, one “on the clock” so it was a quick check his docket so he could be off again to meet his ride schedule. Others arrive for the night and it’s BIG huge gathering all round. We have the official check-in for the SCDR Border Run with the group photo done out at the SA/WA Border sign – Border Run complete.
More socialising and some rest before a dinner full of fun and frivolity with wonderful blokes and lots of laughs. Must be getting old or time zones have messed with us but we seemed to fade very quickly and say our goodnights and farewells – ride safe and we head for bed.
Day 5 – Border Village to Wudinna
Woken by some engines wanting to get away early (I think about 5am) but dozed on and off as we listened to more engines coming to life and departing. We pack and for a change aren’t the last to leave, in fact not even close..lol. The cloud cover was heavy which shielded the rising sun from our eyes but held the colour of rain and just knew we were going to get wet. The roads wet, it starts to rain but not that drenching rain just enough to make the road a bit slippy. Just before the roadhouse you have to get THAT photo (even if it is sprinkling).
184km to Nullarbor Roadhouse for fuel and Karl’s breaky, coffee for me and more friends pull in after us. Joined by Chicky, Quinny, Macca, Bill, Trevor & Possum where we enjoy some laughs before it’s time to head off again into the rain where we no doubt will meet up with these guys again. Penong for fuel & yep the boys pull in after us. Karl found an old FarRider cap which someone left behind, so when we get to Wudinna tonight I find out who owns it and arrange for it’s return.
It’s uneventful crossing the Nullarbor, there’s barely a bend in the road but we continue on and pull into Ceduna for fuel and go in search of a café to get some lunch. Well, on a Sunday – fat chance of that. The only place (other than the roadhouse) was “Bill’s Chicken Shop” so that’s where we pulled up. Allo and behold who should also arrive but our stalkers – the boys….LOL. The guys are really a barrel of laughs and I would gladly travel with them any day of the week…..if only for the laughs. They are stopping in Ceduna tonight but Karl & I still have 211kms to go to reach Wudinna, so we are on our bikes and off again. Still raining and just over 2 hours later we get fuel at the Wudinna roadhouse before turning into town and locating the Wudinna Hotel Motel.
So glad I booked us here, best accommodation we’ve had so far and attached to a lovely pub with great dining room. Into get dinner and bump into Nick “Super Frog” & Steve already seated, so we join them for dinner and conversation before heading back to our room as we are beat. Another good nights sleep and Karl wakes we up at 8AM….what!! We’d picked up our continental breaky the night before and had a nice breaky and late start – Nick & Steve were long gone.
Day 7 – Wudinna to Quorn
It poured down last night and this morning everything is wet and the fog is heavy & a bit chilly. Karl led us out and it’s slow going at 80kph. Again, the cloud & fog hid the sun so we weren’t blinded by the sun however we were blinded by the fog and so was everyone else. Caravaners travelling slow & slower with overtaking made difficult due to poor visibility. Eventually we passed them and rose out of the fog just west of Kimba and had beautiful fresh mornings run into Port Augusta.
A splash and dash for fuel at the BP out of town before heading north for a stop in Quorn for 2 nights. We were in shock because on this road there is, wait for it…….twisties!!! Not many but enough to give you a little bit of excitement and then you arrive in Quorn.
There’s even a “Superman” phone box in town…..if I wait long enough maybe “Karl Kent” will show up. The Transcontinental Hotel for dinner where we had lovely local lamb before going up to watch the Silo Art Light Show. It’s cold and the show goes for 3hrs but we could only do an 1hr before heading back to the warmth of our room.
No alarm for the morning so we can get a sleep in on our day of rest.
Day 8 – Quorn Exploring
Woke to the silence of a country town, bliss. Our day of rest includes laundry duties (which the owner kindly allowed us to utilise since the laundromat has closed down). So, with washing on, it’s off to have a morning coffee at the Scruffy Fella Café. It’s an artisan café run by two lovely bearded fella’s and the resident pooches Harry & Willie. The coffee is good and will be back for afternoon tea there.
More walking to have breaky at Tea’s on the Terrace. Naturally you have to have the tea which is served up in beautiful china tea pots and cups with saucers…..very refined.
The rest of the morning was off walking around town visiting the stores that are open, the railway station / museum, the Bush Tucker Trail and seeing more lovely old buildings and some local mural art.
Back to check on the washing and relax in the sun reading my book while Karl is relaxing inside. Whiling the afternoon away is just so lovely when you have no timelines to meet. We head off to the Scuffy Fella Café for afternoon tea & get some pats in with Harry & Willie before we leave. Thought we’d try the other pub in town The Austral and ordered 2x entrée tasting platters which were ok and the pub was quiet cos it’s Schnitty night at the Trans so everyone was there…lol. Another little walk back to our apartment for a quiet night in and good sleep.
Day 9 – Quorn to Broken Hill
Well, we woke to a beautiful sun filled morning with birdies tweeting. We’re away earlier than anticipated on empty roads through green fields and through Wilmington before heading into Orroroo. The obligatory touristy photos before locating a lovely little café called Two Farmers Daughters. Karl had breaky & coffee, I had a darn good hot chocolate. I then took myself off for a little walk of the main street.
From here we head east towards Peterborough for a quick photo. Peterborough brings back heaps of great memories from the Black Dog Ride in 2012 where I made a some very special friends and we made fabulous memories. There aren’t many bends so it’s more straight roads with a little bit of traffic and before long we were pulling into Yunta for fuel.
I forgot to tell Karl that from here we WILL encounter goats and emu. We saw 1000’s of goats and some long-legged feather dusters (which left us alone) along the entire 200kms to Broken Hill. We arrive approx. 1:30pm, unpack and go for a little walk around the block. We went to the art gallery and weren’t impressed with what was on show. Some looked like Howie & Lucy slipped and wiped their tails across the canvas. I dragged Karl into a few more shops before heading back to our room for a rest.
We went up to the Line of Lode Miners Memorial to watch the setting sun and were not disappointed. It’s a bit chilly up there though but it was well worth it. I also got to sit in the biggest chair I have ever seen – felt like Paul Bunyip was gonna turn up at any minute. Dinner at the Chinese Restaurant before retiring for the night.
Day 10 – Broken Hill Exploring
Nice to sleep in again with no pressure and all the time in the world. On our walk around yesterday we spotted a café that we had breaky in this morning. A little bit of sophistication this morning. Another quirky urban café called The Silly Goat. They serve Cats Pajamas Coffee…..hope the pussies aren’t cold without their pj’s this morning. Karl had Perusian Mushrooms on sourdough and I had the poached eggs and we both had coffee….all was delicious.
Today we are out playing tourist again walking around Broken Hill and includes a trip to Silverton – 26km from Broken Hill. It’s red dirt country and the roads feel like you are riding over small corrugated tin that jiggles all your bits and all the other bits you didn’t know you had to jiggle. You cannot guarantee seeing the local donkeys but we were lucky today and they wondered into town, so naturally, you have to get that photo moment. It’s pretty windy today a vast contrast to yesterday but you don’t let that get in the way of doing things. Since my last trip out here the Bakery is now open but a couple of the galleries were closed, I think it had something to do with the Mundi Mundi Bash that is starting.
On the way back from our Silverton experience we went up to see the Desert Living Sculptures about 10km out of Broken Hill. You now must pay to go up to view the sculptures and they sting you a pretty penny for the privilege. We wind our way through the landscape before reaching the carpark and embarking on our Sculptural experience. The weather is wearing away a lot of the carvings in some of the stones but others are still ok. Karl critiques the art, however his critic skills need some honing.
Back to have a rest and decide an easy dinner tonight of pizza. It wasn’t bad and an early night as we leave tomorrow to start the journey south and home.
Day 11 – Broken Hill to Hay
I actually had to set the alarm for this morning so we could have breaky and get on the road. We sleuthed another café on our wanders and this morning we are trying Soull Café & Expresso Bar. I think they have a little obsession with coffee. A simple breaky this morning as I don’t want to be riding on a full tummy, it tends to make you a bit drowsy.
Heading eastward into the sun, heading to Wilcannia for fuel. Once again along this stretch of road there are 1000’s of goats and mobs of long-legged feather dusters (emu) and the odd roo. Wilcannia is not somewhere I would stay but for fuel it was a must today. It was fairly busy and some interesting customers inside which I’m not sure created amusement or worry. Anyway, we are out and onto a stretch of road I’ve not done before, Cobb Highway from Wilcannia to Ivanhoe. This section of road was previously “dirt”, so I am pleased to confirm it is now ALL SEALED. Lunch in Ivanhoe, not one of my best planning options but necessary for fuel as the roadhouse doesn’t really do much in the way of food so it was a pie for me and sausage roll for Karl.
More flat plains and straight roads, watching Karl’s rear tyre which is now resembling a house brick…lol as we travel down into the northern end of Hay. We did pass a look out about 16km north of Hay where if you are so inclined to come back and view the sunsetting over the Hay Plains…. maybe next time when we are in the car. Bidgee Motor Inn is our choice for tonight and Jacky was very lovely welcoming us in. A wonder around town and found some lovely sculptures and of course some silo art. However, my biggest surprise was finding a café (with the same name as one in Corryong) but this one doesn’t do breakfast…WTF!! I mean what café doesn’t serve breaky. There is a bakery and a little fancy café but it doesn’t open until a bit later in the morning. Dinner at the Crown Hotel before returning to our room for our last night’s sleep on the road.
Day 12 – Hay to HOME!!!
We decided to have breaky in Narrandera this morning. This is a very familiar road for me and there is still a bit of water laying around but everything is green. The local bakery served us well this morning as it seems most of the other café’s are either closed or just not open yet. No hurry again today as it’s only about 450km to home.
We pull into home just before 4pm after hitting some rain…what a surprise it is winter. How good is that feeling!! It’s been a fabulous trip and to have Karl come with me on a bike ride that he wouldn’t normally do, just made it all the more special.
A total of 4909.6km for the trip over 12 days. Dudley has clocked up 132,206km with me so far and what a trooper he is.
Now to unpack, hot showers, chill out and figure out what to have for dinner.
Thanks for reading…..until the next adventure.
