What a great nights sleep! in an antique bed at Lorelles. She is such a beautiful person and so wonderful to open her home up to me and Dudley. We have breakfast and a cuppa tea – yes, that’s real tea in a proper teapot again before I pack Dudley, give her a huge hug and thank you for having us.

Now todays adventure takes us on roads not travelled by me before and to see items of the Australian farmlands transformed into glorious pieces of art. That’s right – The Silo Art Trail. I’d already collected one yesterday at Coonalpyn but the other five I’m chasing are in Victoria.

A mere 46km later in Rupanyup (pron. Rup-pun-yup) is the 2^nd portrait in the series. Two children from the community are depicted. The detail is amazing and you can’t help but just stand there in awe of the talent of the artist that captured the pure essence of these kids.

Rupanyup Silos

You really can’t miss any of the silo art as they are all well sign posted.

Another 35km down the road into Sheep Hills for the most colourful of the silos in the series so far. Look I really cannot put into words how gobsmackingly amazing these portraits are. Their eyes seems to follow you where you go.

Sheep Hills Silos

These silos are not far apart and another 35km and you pull up in Brim right in front of the 4^th silo of farmers.

The Real McCoy!! with battered hands and old worn hats are these men of the Australian land! You can see the “life” lived and loved engrained on their faces.

Brim Silos

It’s still reasonably early in the morning and the next silo is a decent 93km away in a town called Patchewollock (you can pron that one just as it looks). I did have to wonder on my here whether I was actually going to the right place. Talk about the road less travelled, this road is barely a cars width wide and has long haul trucks hurtling down it and not giving an inch for anyone else on the road…..it was a bit of a hairy ride at times.

We pass a sign indicating that there is some form of bird life in the area and to on the lookout for it. These birds are called Mallee Fowl and can apparently do some damage due to their size. Now considering I’ve had a couple of encounters and 1 strike, I didn’t want to test the odds so “eyes wide” it was. But what did give me a chuckle was this sign. A colleague calls me “Jolly” and yep look what I found! I have a cutting named after me. This one’s for you Smiley O’Gorman.

We make it safely though and pull into the carpark infront of “The Man of the Land” silo portrait (I don’t know if that is what it’s actually called but it’s what I call him). The stern face of a determined man who works the land day in and day out. Whadya think?

Patchewollock Silos

From here we dash off to Speed (yes, that is the name of a town) for fuel. I think because I took the road less travelled, I missed the town sign (assuming there is a sign). Only 91 here for you travellers – thankfully it was only a splash and dash and it is card only operated pumps. The road across to here is another road less travelled but we just take it easy and don’t actually have any traffic on this one.

On the way outta Patchewollock, we spotted one of those Mallee Fowl…..I can see now why they say they can do a heap of damage….look at the size of the bugger.

27km later and we arrive in Lascelles for the 6^th and final silo of an older couple. He is on one side and she is on the other. Grandparents that have the wisdom of life etched in their faces that are so beautifully depicted by the artist. You feel like she (nan) is going to ask you to come inside and have a cuppa tea and scones with her.  While he (pop) will steady the push bike for his grandkids as they start to pedal off down the drive.

Lascelles Silos

Lascelles Silos

The Silo Art Trail really “takes your breath away”!!! There are no words that can really convey the enormity of the power that each piece of art departs and each will affect you differently and others differently to you. A fabulous tribute to the land.

Along another dodgy back road cross country to come out west of Swan Hill. The road might be dodgy but the scenery is lusciously green waiting for the canola flowers to show their pretty faces.

It’s past lunch time and I really need something to eat. Swan Hill is the stop for fuel and lunch and then I thought I could push on to Wodonga to stay with friends.

However, after sitting down to have lunch, whatever energy I lad left in my body ran straight out my boots and I was knackered. I rang Karl to let him know I was pulling up for the day and spoke to my friends and arranged to stay with them tomorrow night instead. Rang the Murray River Motel on the outskirts of town and nabbed a nice room with off street parking and a good feed at a reasonable rate.

Oh, I finally bought an allen key that I could fix Dudleys spotlight properly instead of having it all cable tied and taped up. He is soooo dirty, I think it’s gonna take ages to get him clean.

So now I’ve almost caught up on my blogging with the exception of I think 2 days which I will fill in prolly when I get home and it’s time to hit the hay.

Good morning Nuri….what a beautiful morning. Today I’m excited cos I’m going to view the first of the Painted Silos. The scenery out here in the hills is dairy, vines and canola. A beautiful array of colours in a melting pot of fresh air, animal smells (read that as you will) and the bitumen that leads me to my next adventure.

Like most of the other morning while I’ve been away to too early for most and the roads are empty. Peaceful!

Just outta Springton SA you come across this big arse tree on the side of the road. It’s hard to miss but when you are too busy looking at surroundings I had to do a uey to come back. The Herbig Family Tree housed Johann Frederick Herbig for 5 years. Yep, he lived in the tree with his wife and family….they had 16 children (obviously no telly back then). It’s pretty amazing. The tree is hollowed out and I can’t even imagine what it would’ve been like.

The Herbig Family.

The Family Tree is surrounded by dairy farms and some very inquisitive cows. While I was admiring the tree all the cows came over to the fence to I suppose “check me out” and make sure I wasn’t doing anything unworthy. Considering I had some of their cousins on, I was surprised when they actually let me pat them. Now there’s a country singer Alan Jackson who in one of his songs has a verse something to the effect of “blessed by the grace of god”, well this morning (not that I’m religious), I do believe though that I was “blessed by the grace of a cow”…..lol

friendly locals

It’s a beautiful riding day and weaving my way through the hills in stills as to why I go to all these little towns and out of the way places. Through Mount Pleasant and into Birdwood. Birdwood, now I didn’t think had a lot to offer (as I had stopped here last year for fuel which is located on the edge of town proper) but I was pleasantly surprised it is a little hidden gem and the first place I came across “traffic”…lol. It does have a quirky pub and some lovely looking little cafés.

downtown Birdwood

One of the guys on the Tracer FB page mentioned that there was this giant rocking horse in a tiny town in the Adelaide Hills, that since I was checking out artwork and such thought it would be a good stop. Since Gumeracha was only a hop, skip and jump away, I thought I’d do a little detour to check it out after all. A nice twisty road to get there lined with beautiful leafy trees slightly swaying. There is a café underneath with a little shop/museum which would’ve been lovely to have a cuppa in – next time. There are some things that you really need 2 people to enjoy, so I’ll just have to come back with Karl. All these little places I “must bring Karl back to” could take up half a year I’m sure……there could be worse things to do!  LOL

Gumeracha

Now a few days ago, my good friend Hackle asked what I was doing accommodation wise once I got to Victoria. My kinda plan had me stopping in Dimboola but he suggested I stay with a friend of his in Horsham – Lorelle. After checking out the Dimboola options last night I accepted the most generous offer to stay with Lorelle and Hackle firmed everything up for me – Thanks Mate!! I contacted Lorelle while at Gumeracha to firstly introduce myself and thank her profusely for your generosity. When I think back on the whole thing, I would’ve done exactly the same thing for any rider.

Heaps of farmland and canola fields line the country back roads as I work my way through to Tailem Bend for fuel.

It really is a wonderful day to be out riding and good to see water in the Murray River. The clear bright blue sky and the smell of fresh country air, makes you wonder “why don’t people get out of town?” Just at the end of this bridge Mr Plod was sitting there with his “hairdryer” attempting to catch some with a bad hairstyle. The cruise was set to just under so I had no worries at all.

It’s late morning and now I’m getting excited as I near the first of the Painted Silo’s on the trail. You really have to consciously remember “above the excitement” that you still have to fuel your body correctly and realised I hadn’t had morning tea. A mere hour down the road and we arrive in the small town of Coonalpyn.

The Silo’s are “incredible!” So BIG and so LIFE like! They really are moving and the attention to detail of these is unbelievable. But hey, look for yourself…..the pics again don’t do them justice.

Coonalpyn is booming since the silos were completed. They have a brand new café right across the road, there’s also another café down the road, a pub, supermarket and a few other stores. Local community members were holding a meeting right in the café and I could overhear them mentioning “how great the silo art is for the town”. After a bite to eat it was back out on the road, more new roads and more farming land.

Into Keith and for a pic of the AMP Land Development Memorial….a Jeep on a pole.

As I’m leaving Keith a very nice truck driver in a shiny new car carrying rig gives we the heads up to pass him. We end up playing tag along the Duke Highway as I pull off to take a pic here and there and he “keeps on truckin’”. Half an hour later and I roll into Bordertown and grab a pic of the town sign and the truckie gives me a wave as he passes.

Now I know I’m not far from the Victorian border which means the potential increase of Mr Plod who will stop you if you look at them the wrong way at times. Best be safe than sorry and reset the cruise to just under the limit. And then……..we arrive into Victoria.

We play our game of tag again and then I’m off. It’s mid-afternoon on a lovely riding day and Dudley, Smurfette and I are just doodling along with massive smiles on our faces. Nhill I stop to top up as I wasn’t quite sure if I’d make Horsham on the tank and didn’t want to risk it. In a previous life I had been to Nhill and had pictured it to be the same but WOW there have been some changes in over 30 years. The essence of the old town is still there in the buildings and monuments but the new builds and the change in people has certainly made a difference. Back out onto the Western Highway now heading for Dimboola. About 10km outta town on the right is the Pink Lake. By the time I realised how pretty it was I had to do a u-ey to get back to the carpark so I could take a pic (getting a bit of practice at these u-eys…not that I got any better). I’m told that the local indigenous community work at mining the salt which is sold as salt flakes….so keep your eye out in the supermarket for Pink Salt from Dimboola.

Dimboola Pink Lake

The reason for going to Dimboola is the same previous life where I had prick relations that lived there on a farm. No chance of me finding the farm or wishing to see the relations but thought I would now go through town and just see what it’s like. Well, I’m very glad Lorelle is hosting me tonight cos Dimboola is a ghost town. There are a couple of new buildings including a supermarket but as for the rest of town….it’s deserted. Smurfette yells out to me “dodged a bullet there Kimmie”.

Dimboola

Due to these little detours Mr truckie has passed me but I managed to pull back onto the Western Highway not far behind him. As I wasn’t in a hurry and I didn’t wish to draw attention to myself the cruise was set under the limit again. Just as well cos not long later Mr Plod going in the opposite direction decides to turn around after about 1km and come back and tail me……ALL the way to Horsham. I obviously was too boring for him and he eventually overtook me at a great rate of speed (probably pissed that he could nab me). Anyway, with him now in front of me I was able to stop for the town sign.

Horsham

As I get just into town Mr Plod had pulled over my nice Mr Truckie and was giving him the full treatment. Turns out there was 3 Mr Plods in that car and they obviously needed to get there quota for the day cos the poor truckie was shaking his head and they were all over his rig. Poor buggar.

Anyhoos, after a brief stop to top up Dudley (as we like to have a full belly hen we head off in the mornings) we finally reach Lorelles.

What a WONDERFUL lady! We unpacked Dudley together and got me settled and then she brings out a pot of tea (in a real teapot) and home made date scones with butter all nice and more. Now that my friends is TRUE honest country hospitality. We settled into comfortable conversation like a couple of ladies who have know each other for years and years….funny how you just click sometimes. Tell ya what, turns out we “had” actually met previously (if only briefly) at the Lobethal FarRide last year. What are the chances!!! LOL

We had a lovely afternoon and I insisted on taking Lorelle out for dinner that night to say thank you. Tell you what, the local pub has a great feed and we sit and natter away while chowing down before walking back to settle into the warmth of Lorelles home for the night.

Wrong!!! While the night was clear and wind free, it was bloody freezing. Yep, I mean freezing. I had my thermal sleepwear on, my puffer jacket, woollen beanie, thermal socks, then sleeping bag liner and my hot water bottle Kebin all packed into my sleeping bag to keep warm. I did sleep, off and on cos it was so cold that it made it difficult to relax to get some sleep. In the morning I woke to the people in the cabins laughing at me emerging from my tent shivering my bones to pieces. There was ICE covering Dudley!!! I then discover it was -1 last night……LOL no wonder I was bloody freezing my bits off!!!! Anyways, its all part of the experience and I wouldn’t change it for the world.

Packed up, I say good bye and thank you to Drew and Sherrin for their wonderful hospitality and generosity.

I’m just a bit excited this morning cos I’ll be back into area of service and can speak to Karl who I have missed terribly. The views are awesome and it’s easy to see how you fall in love with this country….again!! The evidence of wildlife is scattered all over road this morning…..emu, emu, roo and more emu!! Not to mention the live versions running around the place…..eyes wide Kimmie. Thankfully, they keep to themselves today.

It seems really weird to see flood signs out here, but there they are.

Into Hawker for fuel, breakfast and RING KARL!!!! It’s soooooo good to hear his voice again and to let him know that I am OK. It’s actually a little overwhelming and reduces me to tears…not surprising really.

Hawker has a new War Memorial, it’s kinda unique with the sentries guarding the entry but really well assembled.

Karl wishes me safe travels and it’s time to be one my way again.

Taking a different route to get through to Nuri today…new roads – YAY!! Today I go through Craddock down R.M Williams Way. Can’t help but think about the clothing range.

One of the better looking pubs scattered throughout these out of the way towns.

Everywhere you look there are the remains of times gone bye. Here’s another fix-er-upper…..some red brick and cement, a bit of plumbing and it’ll all be good.

Through all these tiny towns then into Orrooroo and out again then Peterborough where I stop for a pic of the big steam train. I stopped once before in 2012 with Kim and Phill on the Black Dog Ride and the memories it bought back caught me by surprise.

Following the A32 and Mount Bryan there are all these wind turbines. They continue for miles before you enter the town on Mount Bryan which has turbine blade in a bay area that can stop and get a pic of……they are really huge. I have stopped here before so didn’t get another pic.

Burra for fuel and lunch but not before a photo op – naturally.

Can you believe they have an Indonesian Café – yep, sounded just a little too strange for my taste so I settle for a quaint little tea room called “Good Golly Miss Polly”!! It’s a step back in time and quirky….love it!!

Good Golly Miss Polly!!

Here I make a phone call to the Barossa Tourist Park in Nuri to see if they have a cabin available – thankfully they do and I let them know I’ll be there at 4pm. Through more new roads including World’s End Highway……does it take you to the World’s End????, you’ll have to go find out yourself. The scenery again is amazing. It’s so green and lush.

I pull in to the Tourist Park and reach the counter at 4:01pm – not bad. I have the best cabin tonight (cos it has aircon and a comfy bed) and have to do some washing cos I’ve run out of clothes. On the way to do my laundry I met a bunch of Grey Nomads. We start chatting and they invite me to join them for dinner and we discuss “why I am out here on my own doing what I’m doing”. Anyway, I thank them but must get back to doing laundry and getting myself fed and checking in with Karl.

Tonights dinner is Tom Pipers Sausages and vegetables. When I was a kid we used to have this sort of thing on the odd occasion. You don’t actually expect much from these meals in a can but there was heaps of sausage and a tonne of veggies too and it wasn’t too bad. I was surprised that I enjoyed it.

Anyway, with all the washing done, it get re-packed and organised before hitting the hay for the night.

I can’t believe Dudley and I survived the night….LOL. To say we were both a bit wind swept is a total understatement. Drew and Sherrin were amazed that I actually stayed in the tent for the entire night. Although I did consider moving my mattress and sleeping bag into the en-suite I had to escape but then that’s not camping is it.

Here’s me in what I slept in that night……LOL!!!! Look out Vogue…here I come.

attractive – hey!!

But this morning you wouldn’t even know there was any windy about yesterday. It’s a beautiful day, slight rustling of the trees, all the birds are singing and the sun is already high is the sky shining down upon us.

What a beautiful day. Drew and Sherrin have asked if I’d like to join them (in their 4WD) to go exploring the station out to Sunset Hill and Nungartina Hut and since there is no way Dudley or I are capable to traverse the landscape I gracefully accept their kind offer.

Sherrin & Drew

Alpana Station is owned and run by the Henery Family. The terrain out here is pretty rugged and you have to wonder again how the Henery Family settled out here in the 1800’s. The current generation are David and Sally who are extremely lovely people who enjoy sharing their homestead with you and making your stay comfortable and memorable.

Drew’s driving is amazing over this landscape, there is no way I would even try it but he is quite comfortable at it. There are lots of roos around this morning and we have to slow to avoid a mishap. The property is covered in pine trees and prickly pear cactus. Heaps of the cactus look to have blood on them but on stopping and having a closer look its paint and they have another piece of cactus cable tied to it. Later Sally informs us that the cactus needs to be eradicated as it takes over the land and prohibits the sheep from grazing. Volunteers come in and tag the cacti with a piece of cacti that has a native beetle which kills the bush – a natural alternative to spraying pesticides.

Finally after bumping along we come to sunset hill. There are sheep grazing up here and a slight breeze which has a chill in it.

The view is jaw droppingly mind blowing. I literally cannot put into words the feeling I have standing up here on what seems like the top of the world. Just take a look at the pics and see for yourself.

We all pile back in the 4WD and head back down the track and turn to take the next track out to the Hut. This trek is bumpier than the last, you kinda feel like a milkshake. More wildlife, more marked cacti and amazing countryside. It’s beautiful, it really is – you really have no idea how much we have here…..who needs to go overseas for beauty.

Along the way, we come across a grave site of a soldier – PTE C.L (Dick) Wahlert. I do not know the story behind who he was or why he is buried all the way out here. It literally is “off the beaten track”. I can only imagine he worked for the Henery Family way back when and this is where his heart felt at ease. RIP Soldier.

The Hut is nestled deep in the property located on the flat on the edge of a dry creek bed (well it’s dry at the moment but you can see the water marks on the trees when it is flowing).

It’s not flash by any means of anyones imagination. Its constructed from pine and mud with hessian and a corrugated roof (which is has been recently replaced). Inside is sparse………old (I mean old) steel bunk beds x 3 with a piece of foam for a mattress which has seen better days.

The table, fire place some tin pots and hessian bags over the window for curtains…it’s as simple as that and beautiful in its own right. The out house is a long drop with a view that you could charge a squillion for!!!

You immerse yourself in the land here and imagine what it would be like to stay here and wake up in natural beauty.

Sherrin and I enjoy an imaginary cuppa billy tea.

Back at camp I thank Sherrin and Drew for taking me with them. Now it’s off to Blinman on Dudley to explore the town bought to life by Fleur MacDonald and do the Blinman Mine Tour.

The 5km to town is an adventure in itself. Emu have bred in massive numbers the last season and they are “everywhere”! Nothing like a bit of excitement for the morning.

A homemade pastie is calling me for an early lunch before I meet the tour guide who has kindly offered to drive me to the mine (given it’s all gravel to get there and not particularly nice).

Blinman General Store

The mine is A-Maz-Zing!!!

Mine entrance

The miners themselves where Cornish and came to Blinman with high expectations which were dashed when they arrived and discovered that there is really nothing there. It was hard yakka for the families. The men and boys 14years and older were sent to work in the mines while the woman, girls and rest of the children stayed on the surface. The miners would leave their homes in the dark of the morning then work for 12 hours a day in the dark of the mines with the only light provided by candle then return to the surface and home again in the dark. These guys rarely saw the light of day unless they were sick or injured and unable to work otherwise it was like ground hog day for them. The women’s work was just a tiresome. With no running water they had to walk for miles with a bucket(s) whatever they could carry over some rough terrain to get water for the day then return back home and cook, tend to the young , clean, wash etc before turning in for the night themselves. When you think about and look at what these folk had to deal with we have nothing to complain about really.

Eerie is one way to describe the feeling you get when in these mines underground. The tunnels this way and that are not very high cos the Cornish were very short people but managed to operate in the conditions like moles. During their 12 hour shifts they weren’t permitted to leave the mines, so they had to do everything down there. The loo consisted of a tin which one of the boys would carry back to the surface at the end of the day and empty….pretty grouse really. Lunch was carried in a pouch around their necks which contained the famous Cornish Pastie. Now here’s something I never knew……the Cornish pasties thick pastry scrolled top was made that way so the miners could turn the pastie upside down and use that as a handle to eat the rest of the pastie without wasting anything. The scrolled top was saved though as superstition ran rife and it was left in the meal cutout as an offering to mine gods/ghosts/entities to ensure all went well. If the next day the offerings were gone, they knew that things were good….little did they know the gods happened to be giant rats that lived down there and thrived on the offerings.

This is one of the hand cut mine shafts. They used to dig a hold in the wall and place a plank and peg in it to secure the plank then climb up another run to reach the next level to mine.

We aren’t able to view all the mines as some of them are unstable, however below is a photo of the mouth of one of the shafts and the levels they go down. Each level is dug at a depth of 10 fathoms or 18 feet each with its own labyrinth of cut outs.

Back out on the surface and the sun is blinding….lol. Again I realise how lucky we are in todays day and age.

Now it’s off to take photos of this iconic town to me anyway and cement the picture of the Blinman Town that Fleur MacDonald created so beautifully. The room behind the General Store and the Pub where the character stayed…to the walks up into the Finders Ranges which are farther away than they are depicted in the book but the imagination is a wonderful thing and I can still see it all in my  minds eye…..Thank you!

Blinman Hotel

An original hut which would’ve been occupied by a mine captain or someone senior on site.

Now this piece of artwork is a mine bucket which has been adapted to incorporate parts of the history of the town and the mines.

Just after the Blinman town sign there is a road off to the left (dirt) which was maintained by this Heavy Drawn Grader from 1933 as well as a couple of other roads

Back at camp and I take some time out to catch up on some blogging in word cos yep there ain’t no service out here. It’s really weird not being able to talk to Karl each night and let him know I’m ok. New family of campers arrive and new friends Drew and Sherrin offer to take me into Blinman to the Pub’s first Pizza and Pasta night – thanks guys! The pizza is the best I’ve had from an external source (Karl’s are heaps better but this came a very close second). Afterwards we head back to Alpana Station for the night.

The en-suite is a real blessing and I am able to have a pipping hot shower, stoke up the Trangia and make myself a nice hot cuppa before heading out into the tent for the night. There isn’t any wind tonight so it should be nice  and quiet and I should get a goods nights sleep…..Right!

Guess what……I got to pat a wombat this morning. The lady in the room next door is a wildlife rescuer and she had a wombat in care. It had nails that any deva would be proud of but was so cute and soft and just a baby. Giving it a cuddle was just out of comfort zone though with those talons.

Today we are headed to Blinman – Alpana Station to be precise. Where’s that you say? Well, it’s well and truly in The Flinders Ranges just ~60km north of Wilpena Pound and 5km south of Blinman town itself. Why? Again another good question. I read these books by Australian author Fleur MacDonald and one of the books was about this outback town in the Flinders Ranges called Blinman. Never in my wildest dreams did I think it ever existed (being fictional and all) but Mr Google said “looky here Kimmie, there is a town called Blinman”, so naturally when the opportunity of the Border Run came up this was a “must” to visit on the journey home.

First stop though was on Horrocks Pass Way to pay respects to Davo at the plague and get that iconic banner shot. Due to the wind again today though I couldn’t park up on an angle.

Now Smurfette kicked up another stink cos Dudley was grabbing all the limelight, so here she is with that big smile on her face.

Winding my way through Horrocks Pass – the first “real” twisties I’ve seen since….hmmmmmm can’t remember and I’d love to take a pic but for the first time in ages there is traffic behind me so I sit back and just enjoy the change in pace. This pic is taken heading into the Pass.

It doesn’t take long and you pop out at Wilmington but today we head left and take the road to Quorn (pron. Corn). I look at Dudleys ODO and he’s gonna have a birthday today!!! HAPPY BIRTHDAY DUDLEY!!! Unfortunately, there wasn’t a safe place to pull up for the pic until 24km after the fact. But still it’s a nice milestone for him. Now we are both in the 50 club…he he he.

I love it out here, well out of suburbia into the wide open spaces. The air has a different smell about it….what is it now – ah that’s it FRESH!! The scenery is unbelievable and at times it hard to imagine people actually living out here. However they do and there are remnants of times gone by dotted all over the country. Here’s a little one that doesn’t need much work. Maybe another consideration??? hmmmm

As you can see there are quite a few trees around and not far down the round one of these so called trees decided to run out on the road…..EMU!! I think we both had a “deer in headlight” moment as both the whites of our eyes bulged from our heads and thankfully it turned around just narrowly not connecting with us….phew! It certainly helps you put things back into prospective – eyes wide Kimmie.

Yikes!!

Then in a blink we are into Quorn and seek out Emily’s Bistro also known as The Great Northern Emporium for a morning coffee. This place is full of ye olde worlde stuff and all things yummy and cakey baked right there on the premises. It’s also renowned for the Quangdong Pie, which I have learnt is a little berry type fruit that has a big seed and a small amount of flesh that is a favourite of the locals. It apparently has a taste not to dissimilar to rhubarb.

On the Flinders Highway and the Ranges seem to encompass you from out of nowhere. Then you find yourself in the middle of nowhere with nothing but a flat horizon and saltbush. Views so worth it!! No stress, no fuss, just the open road and wide open spaces that fill your mind with the wonder of this country. This is heaven!!

You cross so many dried up creek beds out here and signs that say “flooding”….Whadta?? Flooding out here, yep, it does and when it does you are pretty much cut off – isolated from the bitumen that leads you back into civilisation as we know it. Quite frightening when you think about it really. But this is a life that people choose to live and they make the most of what they have and go without if they have too! Inspiring!!

You cross so many dried up creek beds out here and signs that say “flooding”….Whadta?? Flooding out here, yep, it does and when it does you are pretty much cut off – isolated from the bitumen that leads you back into civilisation as we know it. Quite frightening when you think about it really. But this is a life that people choose to live and they make the most of what they have and go without if they have too! Inspiring!!

A little bit of work and she’d be good as new.

The Wilson Homestead

10 minutes later and we arrive in Hawker. Hawker is pretty much the last fuel stop before Blinman (apparently you can get fuel at Wilpena Pound but I have not confirmed this and wasn’t taking any chances). I was surprised at the size of the town to be honest. Teagues Motors is the place to go for fuel (they have premium) the other 2 places only have unleaded and diesel. Allo and behold they have an art gallery here by local artist Jeff Morgan. Naturally I have to go have a look. Some people are just so talented and if they can make a living doing what they love – then why not. Before I leave town and head into further unknown, I ring Karl. The more I go away the more I miss him and know my life would mean nothing without him. I let him know and the world of FB that for the next few days I probably won’t have any communication due to the location. I let Karl know that I’ll ping my SPOT once I’ve arrived and set up……hope you got it Sweety.

I don’t know who owns the Africa Twin but it’s pretty new and doesn’t seem to have been off-road very much.

Jeff Morgan Gallery

You really can’t get lost out here….there is only 1 main bitumen road so you just follow your nose and the signs….lol

The Map….lol

Heading into the Flinders Ranges and who knows what I am going to see or find. Thanks for the welcome.

The Flinders Ranges

The area out here is mostly unfenced and the roos and emus run ramped. After this mornings efforts, I’m taking it nice an easy just in case I have to stop suddenly. The road weaves around and through, up and over, down and out the ranges with sign posts denoting “twisties” not that I’ll be hitting them with speed – eyes wide! Past Wilpena Pound turn off and I think about the story I read yesterday in the Wadlata Centre. These 2 snakes that gobbled up the humans and drank so much that their bodies dug trenches through the ground forming something like a mote around the ground and formed a pound – hence the name (my short version of the story).

~60km down the road and more twists and turns and I finally reach my destination – Alpana Station. Yes, that’s more “allergic” dirt but it’s not much.

Alpana Station

Checked in and Camp Kimmie set up again. Sally and David make you feel so welcome to their property which is a working sheep station with ~3000 head of Merino sheep.

I can’t believe it made it! The holiday really has just begun. Had a bit of trouble pitching the tent due to the wind which as it turns out only got worse the further the night went on.

The reception building and I think some accommodation out the back.

It’s a magical place.

The Shearer’s Quarters

I meet my neighbours – Drew and Sherrin and while away the afternoon chatting before I leave them to get some shots of the sun setting. There really aren’t any words that I can pen here to give you a true perspective of how awesome the land is and the feeling of “peace” it gives you.

Sunset – Alpana Station Blinman

Then it’s time for dinner. Very flash tonight, Continental Fried Rice cooked in the Trangia camp stove.

dinner

I tell you what, it tasted bloody good too!!!

Listening to the howling winds outside and I wonder to myself “girl what are you doing?” Anyway, this is what I chose to do and it’s all about the experience. Dudley was tucked up for the night but I was more worried about him than anything else (as I had to leave him on his side stand). The wind lifted the edges of the tent with me in it and I had to add weight to the inside and pinned my towel across the foot end to stop the gale winds blowing through. Don’t think I’ve ever been in winds that ferocious and never ever slept in anything like that before. Thank goodness, for the thermal sock liner and Kebin-the hot water bottle.

Had a bit of a change to plan last night. On the way to the pub got chatting to the local Copper – real nice bloke and by the time I got back on me way, well it was getting dark. Busy night in the pub, so dinner was a bit later and then well the Block came on the telly. Yep, you guessed it. Stayed there and watched it, in the warmth while chatting to an old bloke that was there for the fishin’ competition and then the Michael the van park owner came over for a bit of a chat……who said life was boring. Anyhoos, after the block it was back to camp Kimmie for the night.

Another good nights sleep in the little tent and awake to a bit of a windy morning. Loving the 7:30am sleep ins. Not too bad and the sun is coming out. Breaky in the camp kitchen this morning as I need to get packed up and head out bound for The Gutter (Port Augusta). Look it probably took me an hour to pack up and then add the Kimmie ready time and was on the road by 9:00am (not bad by my reckoning).

After speaking with some of the Nomads I’ve had a change of plan and will take the coast road today. The plan, no plan in place we take our first turn off onto the Birdseye Highway heading for Lock. Birdseye….had a little chuckle and still chuckling when I think about the name…I get the Captain Birdseye song in my head…LOL

Heading towards Lock and the wind has started to pick up and thankfully I have my heated gear on again just on low to take that chill off. The sky show is ever changing once more however the show seems to turn a dark and gloomy colour. Look there’s still some blue but it’s not looking great. They are moving so fast enough though that it might just blow over the top of us.

Half an hour later and the wind has picked up unbelievably!! The clouds are moving and swirling around above us and I wonder whether we are going to get caught up in it too. A Dorothy in Oz moment ponders around in my head….

Even the trees are struggling at the moment. Certainly was a test to the upper body strength.

Through Lock and onto Cleve for a quick pic of the Post Office – 5640

At least the sun is out but the wind is blowing a gale. Having to be extra cautious where I stop at the moment. Pushing onto Cowell where I stop for a coffee, fuel for Dudley and of course a picture of the Jetty for Smurfette. On the way to get fuel there is a little museum on the left just before the servo so a pic. At the servo, I get chatting to this old bloke that used to ride bikes eons ago and mentions that he’s read all about these FarRiders and IBA Riders but never met one. Well I guess I made his day, cos I’m both. I told him to check out the FarRiders forum and if he joins mention that he met Kimmie in Cowell. I wonder if he will.

Why is it when you order a coffee with sugar they put the sugar in the cup first and then never stir the bloody thing. This coffee was awful, why, cos all the bloody sugar was lumped into the bottom of the cup just like it was put there in the first place.

Cowell Jetty

Cowell Machinery Museum

You have to make a left at Cowell to head up to Whyalla and long here the wind gusts have really picked up the pace and Dudley and I are doing are darnedest to stay on the correct side of the road. We are battered from all sides at some points and I will be grateful to be off him this afternoon. The grey clouds are still looming and the clouds are continuing to do their dance is the whirlwinds that are happening up there. I believe this range is Mount Whyalla as we creep closer to the bay.

Really found it tough to get the pics today cos of the wind. If you slowed down you were almost pushed off the road and if you stopped you were almost blown over. But the scenery is pretty awesome.

Finally, we reach Whyalla and I went in search of the touristy sign and the big anchor. But as you know I can get lost even with a GPS and today was no exception. It had me going all round town and eventually I found a battleship which I though was pretty cool.

As it turns out the touristy pic that I wanted was on the wrong side of the road at a set of traffic lights that I had no chance of doubling back for as there are islands down the middle. Guess that pics will have to wait for another time. Heading outta town and now I am counting down the time and distance to The Gutter. The wind is so bad that it’s fatiguing me and you start to tense up when that happens.

Despite the winds, the sun is still out though and well the views……see for yourself.

I chat to myself and Dudley and Smurfette give me words of encouragement along the way, but still watching the mile markers for PA go by…it really is a countdown. Anyway, we do finally reach Port Augusta.

Find my room at the Motel Poinsettia and unpack. Today I feel like I’ve been sailing the high seas and when I got off Dudley my legs were all wobbly. Friends Lynne & Fatman mentioned the other day after their ride that they felt liked they’d been in a washing machine….well today I well and truly feel like I’ve been through the tumble drier.

Now it’s off to the Wadlata Information and Tourist Centre. I saw an ad for this earlier in my travels and after speaking with Gags at Border Village decided to check it out for myself.

The tour takes hours (which I wasn’t aware of) but I paid admission and did the Kimmie abridged version, which still took about 1-1/2 hours. The entrance is the mouth of a giant snake which is quite relevant to the story telling of the tour as you wonder around.

Once inside the mouth you follow the twists of what can only be described as the body of the snake taking in the sights and the commentary of the exhibit.

Afterwards I retreat back to the motel and tuck Dudley in for the night then once again wonder over to the local pub for a feed.

Good morning Elliston!!

Had the best nights sleep last night in all the time I’ve been away. Nice and toasty in the tent. It’s true what they say about the gear you have though. I spent a little extra and bought a thermal sleeping sock and a new pillow and it is so well worth it. Kicking back now after boiling the kettle for breaky.

Camp kitchen Kimmie

Found this giant wondering the park this morning

What’s the plan for today, lets see………check out the van park and see what’s actually available and see if I can get free wi-fi from the office. The lady recommends that I take the opportunity to explore and take the Anxious Bay Clifftop Drive….it’s dirt road she says….argh!! but it’s good dirt you should be fine. With her trusty words of encouragement, Dudley and I head off for a morning tour.

First stop is the Elliston Jetty (don’t tell Smurfette, she’ll be pissed at us for not bringing her along – she loves jetties). It’s a little blowey this morning but the sun is out and the sea-gulls are gulling. The Grey-Nomads are out in force too, Elliston seems to be a popular town today.

She sells Sea shells by the jetty shore…..lol

Now off to find the Clifftop Drive and see what the fuss is about. It’s just outta town on the left and I decide to go clockwise and tackle the dirt first (shorter distance to turn around then……. To my surprise it’s not bad, a bit rocky but then you’d expect that right but soooooo well worth the trip. I cannot even describe to you the peace and serenity up here. The smell of the ocean clears the head…better than a Vicks Vapour drop. That’s Elliston township in the background.

The Drive is 12.3km (10 of them dirt) as it winds its way around the coastline. Very glad I packed the tripod, just to prove that I was actually there and appeared in some pics.

Pretty awesome hey!!

Bumped into these guys along the way. They asked me if I’d join them but I declined (gracefully) cos I think they were “stoned” LOL

As I wound my way round the coastline the views just kept getting better. The sea breeze and ocean smells are something else. Took extra care when parking Dudley as not to slip on the gravel.

And the peace de résistance….WOW!!!

Back into town and lunch today is at the roadhouse – a toasted ham and cheese croissant, before heading into town to the bakery for a “real” coffee. But not before checking out a mural painted community building. Turns out to be the OP shop but isn’t the artwork fantastic.

Sorry to bore you with pics but there is so much to see and I just can’t do it all justice in words.

At the bakery with coffee in hand (which is pretty good) I sit with a couple sets of Grey-Nomads and we chat away about this and that. Caravan choices are the most relevant topic naturally and there are so many options in this field. While listening and piping in every now and again, I sitting back imagining Karl and I doing this in a camper/caravan down the track. The still have places to be today and well me, I’m just bumming around so we say our “fair thee wells” and head off in our own directions.

It’s still early in the afternoon, so with potato chips in hand I decide to take a walk along the back of the van park along the coastline and beach (no I didn’t venture down into the beach….I’m not a sand kinda gal). Again the views are spectacular. I decide to wander through the back streets of town and check out the real estate. There really are some pretty awesome homes here and well some not so lovely ones too. I did happen to find one place in a back street (one back from the coast/beach road) that was for sale. Nice little place with a big garage and lots of parking……Sweety whadya think??

Homey and heaps of parking!

So now I’m sitting in the camp kitchen, catching you all up on the adventures and the temperature starts to drop and the sun slowly lowers its head.

I’ll be off to the pub again tonight for dinner then will wonder down to the common room to catch up on The Block tonight before turning in.

Have a great night and I’ll see you all tomorrow.

Welcomed this morning by Robyn and Wally for breakfast after a sleep in (I think the first for the trip). Soon packed and I say farewell to them and I highly recommend that if you are in Ceduna some time, stop in and stay at the Ceduna Motor Inn.

It’s another overcast morning but I am hoping that it fines up. The temperature has certainly risen today so far as I don’t require the heated gear to be turned on.

Todays destination is Elliston via way of Streaky Bay on the Flinders Highway. Exit stage Right…….  Now my friend Nico had posted on FB about a place in Smoky Bay named after me…imagine that. With this in mind I made a slight detour in search of this new found business of mine. Allo and behold – Angel’s Oyster Barn (if only I like the darn things…lol).

Quite the Entrepreneur

Thought we’d go into town and see what we can see…….another jetty. Smurfette insisted that this phot be hers and not Dudleys (he gets too many Kimmie…oops). There isn’t much in town a couple of caravan parks and that’s about it that I could see.

Smoky Bay Jetty

I’m watching as the clouds play the pantomime again of ever changing scenes…..dark and gloomy (cue music) to bright and sunny. The coastline is scattered with little “dirt” offshoots leading to hidden treasures I’m sure but not that the three of us are going to tackle today. That’s a canola field. They are potted in between the wheat and barley fields…I figure crop rotation. The green is so vibrant against the contrast of the red verge on one side and on the other is bare field that likes like nothing would grow in it.

Flinders Highway

Next stop is for coffee in Streaky Bay. Why stop here, well I like the sound of the town name and they have a Museum that’s painted with a mural which took my fancy when I was doing my research. The sky is beautiful along here and opens out into the ocean.

approaching Streaky Bay

The Power Museum Mural.

Streaky Bay Power Museum

Just up the road is the Elliot Café and Bakery. A quant little place which is obviously the place to go cos it was doing a roaring trade. While having my coffee a couple – Steve and Julie came to chat to me about Dudley and why I was out here. We exchanged stories and some 20minutes each bid each other a safe journey and adventure. There’s no hurry today only a baby day roughly 240km could be in before lunch but meh…why hurry.

After coffee Smurfette wanted to have another look at the water and yet another jetty (I think she’s taken a liking to them), so how could I disappoint here when she battered her big eyes at me.

Streaky Bay Jetty

Ner ner Dudley I got another pic…….. the rivalry I tell you!!! LOL

Next stop is Murphy’s Haystack at Mortana. Now I stumbled across these on the internet and thought WOW, that’s pretty amazing, better go check ‘em out. Watching the GPS and not the sign post, I nearly ended up in the gravel….oopsies.

“allergic”

Uey completed and down the right road

A donation honesty box is set up at the entrance for $2 you get the best views of an natural phenomenon. The formations are massive, huge even and are just plonked in the middle of this field like they had been placed there. They kinda reminded me of the Devils Marbles north of Wycliffe Wells in the Northern Territory. But how breathtaking are they……

Just to give you an idea of the size of these formations.

Huge!

The view is really something special and the pics just do not do it justice.

On our way again and we are so close to the coast that it feels like you could almost reach out and touch it.

Another town comes by Venus Bay this time…sorry Smurfette, it’s Dudleys turn.

We didn’t go in but maybe we should’ve stopped there for lunch…..we live and learn.

More amazing countryside and it’s only now that I start to get a bit of rain. Watching the sky dance again and it’s looks like we are heading into another front…nooooo. Seems to be intermittent again and I have my fingers crossed it passes.

Into Elliston – Waterloo Bay for fuel and it is raining now – poo but the lady at the servo tells me it’ll pass and asks me where I am headed today. She advises me the Elliston Waterloo Bay Caravan Park is just around the corner, but not before a town sign pic.

Into the park and see Michael the owner who offers me a protected campsite just across from the loo (good man) and a concrete pad for Dudley. It took me a bit to get set up…funny it takes no time at home but when you have to do it on the road it seems to take forever. Anyway, Camp Kimmie is erected and it’s off to do washing and get some lunch.

Inside Camp Kimmie it isn’t very luxurious but it’s home for a couple of nights.

Down town Elliston

And here we have another example of fine murals on the Pharmacy.

Now I think I mentioned Elliston is a fishing town, well I think somewhere you can also do some whale watching.

Dinner at the pub (the only choice) then back to camp for a shower, talk to you guys through the keyboard but most importantly speak with my Sweety.

Lazy day tomorrow.

Nighty night.

Woken this morning by the sounds of rumbling exhausts of my fellow riders departing for their respective homes or adventures and the sound of rain. Guess it had to happen eventually. Dudley, Smurfette and I are all packed up and we are off, waving to a few that are having breaky on the verandah of the roadhouse before leaving themselves.

Another spectacular performance by the clouds today. Before long I turn off to the lookout on the west side of the Bight. It’s all gravel as are most of the drives out this way and Dudley are I are becoming accustomed to this…..slowly. Rob & Lisa are also there with the same idea to get a few pics.

The views along the coastline are breathtaking and this morning was no exception…..even with the cloud and fog rolling in.

Anyway, time to go as my tummy is rumbling cos I haven’t had breakfast yet which is 180km away.

The plains out here are tireless. Empty, yet full, and you are forever on the watch for wildlife. This stretch was roos, wombats and camels….thankfully I haven’t seen any of them. Before long I approach another iconic sign……. The Nullabor Plain – Western End of a Treeless Plain. It’s true too, there are NO trees for the stretch of the plain which is approx. 10km only.

Just up the road is the Nullabor Roadhouse where I meet Rob and Lisa for breakfast. They have many more kays to tick off today and say hoo-roo while I take my time. When I finally emerge they are still in the carpark with Lisa’s bike apart. Lucky I carry tools and offered what they needed while they fixed the problem……that’s their story to tell. I wave hoo-roo this time and get on my way. Today I think I will be running the gauntlet with a storm front. Blue/grey skies, then rain, then wind and more wind and more wind, then rain and black clouds, then blue sky….the way of the outback.

Today I am stopping in Ceduna and as you can see it’s not far – 294 kays should be in for late lunch.

I never seem to get tired of the views though. When Mother Nature puts on a display like this – what more is there to say but WOW. This morning was tailwinds and now it’s cross winds and strong heading from the south. A bit annoying when the road train pass you….unlike previous days I am unable to slip through the wash and am copping a beating today.

Eyre Highway

What a surprise…it’s raining again…LOL. As you can see, it’s peak hour!

Just after 2pm and I arrive in Penong. Now I stopped for fuel here on the way over and missed the town attraction of the Biggest Windmill in Australia, so this time I stopped. No fuel this time as I’ll have just enough to get me through to Ceduna.

The Big Windmill is called Comet

I’m a bit worried about stopping here as the ground is sandy and the wind is blowing a gale and I hope Dudley doesn’t blow over.

Windmill Penong

From Penong it’s only 70kays to Ceduna and the wind has picked up some more. I’m running the options for accommodation in my head. I was originally going to camp at the Big 4, but when I asked the lady at the servo what the weather for tonight was – blustery winds (100kph) and storms, I decided to head to the friendly Ceduna Motor Inn again and see if Wally and Robyn had a spare room. On the outskirts of town I am blessed with a lovely rainbow!

rainbow in the field

Wally and Robyn and given me a lovely room and we are all tucked up nicely for the night. Late lunch of a Gags Roast and a stroll down to the Ceduna Jetty for a pic.

Off to dinner shortly and then an early night ready for another day on the road.

Good morning Ceduna…..

Gotta be happy with that.

Breaky with Nico then pack up and head off. Little day today only 480km to do. We aren’t travelling together and will probably play tag along the way, along with Gags who stopped in Wudinna last night some 2hrs behind us. Bit windy today but not as chilly as it has been…so not heated socks today.

Ceduna to Penong first stop for fuel but the stretch in between WOW. There is sooooo much country out there to see, it’s mind boggling. Not far out of town and I came across this sign for the next 79km. Eyes wide Kimmie!!! As you can see it’s rained already, not much it’s more like a spattering sun shower than anything serious. Dries up in no time.

Yikes

For as far as the eye can see…..the ever changing landscape. Salt bush and red dirt, sand, then trees, wind and wind and more wind not to mention the pantomime the clouds put again for me today. Dark then light, wet then dry….they must be menopausal (emotions all over the place like that…LOL). But how fantastic

It is windy but not too bad at the moment, Dudley, Smurfette and I are just tootling along nicely and come across this…

Not too far to go now….only 330km..YAY!!! But look at the scenery….totally amazing. There is so much to see and so much of nothingness that put you at easy with the universe. I tried to stop for a pic a little further back but the verges are real dodgy and I couldn’t safely stop besides the wind is blowing pretty hard now and I was worried Dudley might blow over. Nico caught me and asked if I was ok, gave him the pic sign and he said there was a better place a few kays down the road. To right there is – thanks mate. The Nullabor Plain – I  made it. WOO HOO!!! How inspirational is this place. The never ending horizon of for a now a beautiful blue with the stretch of cloud like a blanket rolling up towards your chin to tuck you in….breathtaking. In case you were wondering, yes, it’s still damn windy.

Now the guys had worded me up about the wildlife and places to stop, one of which is The Head of The Bight…..The Great Australian Bight that is…naturally. I’ll tell you know the ominous rain clouds you see didn’t eventuate….just yet.

Head of the Bight

What can I say about this place…..spectacular!!! $15 admission and you get to walk out to the cliff edge and watch the whales dance in the water. There were 9 out there today and I was lucky enough to be able to see some of them.

The Bight coastline

Not the best pic of me, but I WAS THERE!!! Look how magic that view is (just imagine my big melon out of the way….ha ha ha).

And for the finally…….a baby whale. The graceful giants of the sea….majestic!

Onya bike girl you’ve got to be somewhere. That somewhere was for fuel and lunch – The Nullarbor Roadhouse. This place like many along this stretch is an oasis in the middle of nowhere. This is the original roadhouse and fuel pump…..no I didn’t get fuel from there, they have a shiny new roadhouse, petrol station, motel now which has a little bit of everything. As I’m filling up that rain cloud from before decided to have a cry…poo. Parked up Dudley under cover and went and had lunch inside out of the wind and rain. Rang Karl, boy I wish he was here….it’s amazing! Everything good with me and with him, I hang up and have a little moment of emptiness  – where your heart sinks and the pang that the one you love so much can’t share this with you. Sweety I hope you can get a sense of all this by my words.

Nullabor Roadhouse – original

The road goes on for-ev-er!! But the scenery keeps changing ever so slightly. Then I see this sign…….now I have to watch out for Camels – YIKES!!!

Thankfully I didn’t see any but I did see a dingo with some unthoughtful persons rubbish in its mouth. The wind has really picked up now. I’m on my last tank of Dudley go-go juice before I reach my destination and am sitting nicely along on 115km with the cruise control. The heated gear turned down low just enough the take the edge off. Have I mentioned how that has also paid for itself this trip.

Not far now!!! I’m getting excited. Kicked back and relaxed watching the clouds dance across the never-ending plains and watching for wildlife (which is never far from my mind). There are turn off scattered along the coastal for you reach viewing areas….they are gravel roads but I out my “big girl” pantaloons on and went out to have a look. The walk to the actual look out was ages away and it’s windy as so decide a pic from the carpark will suffice.

Smurfette wasn’t that impressed with the wind I can tell you…..she kept complaining about her hair…..really!!

More straight road…the road…the only road that traverses the country east to west or west to east and that 183kms seemed to disappear. Also disappearing was my fuel! It was like I entered the Bermuda Triangle Fuel Vortex and it was sucked out like nobody’s business. I was warned about this but in all my excitement to reach Border Village I’d stayed with the cruise setting.

And then……..TAH DAH!!!!!  Roo – the sign that says I MADE IT!!! To Border Village.

Into the gravel again and skirted a muddy pothole, well not quite as good as I could’ve and nearly dropped Dudley. Gags is already at the fuel pump and we head in together and get our rooms sorted for the night. Parked up outside my digs for the next 2 nights and Dudley and Smurfette are tucked up nice and tidy in their spots.

Settled in and showered, it’s time to kick back with friends and join in the festivities for the night.

I made it, can you believe it!! It’s a surreal feeling, I almost can’t believe it myself.

Together Dudley, Smurfette and I have completed since leaving the driveway at home 2552km. What an awesome adventure!!!

Just quietly……I’m just a little bit proud of myself…sshhhh